Room Forty Goes Downtown

The late summer evenings are balmy here in LA, cloudless skies providing a peaceful backdrop to palm trees and skyscrapers alike. Bringing the tranquility of the outdoors in, Room Forty held this month’s wine dinner at The Farmers and Merchants Bank on 4th and Main. The dramatically long dinner table held all of us bohemians, side by side by side, comfortable among friends both new and old—including winemakers Russell From and McPrice “Mac” Meyers.

As usual, we started with a chilled pour of a friendly white wine. This time, it was a 2007 High on the Hog blend of Marsanne, Roussane, and Viogner from Paso Robles.

My college chum, JP, joined us this month with his friend T. Never having experienced the goodness that is Room Forty, they were pleasantly surprised at how seamlessly the wines were paired with the food. JP especially enjoyed the Whitehawk Viognier, the first wine poured once we were seated. It was snappy, with a hint of spice that is surprising for a wine of this type. The clam chowder shooter that came for our amuse bouche was a good balance for the wine. Also paired with this wine was our opening course, beautiful brandywine tomatoes with sumptuous burrata and baby basil drizzled with a wonderfully syrupy balsamic reduction.

A meaty pan-roasted sturgeon was next, accented with [ichiline olives, artichoke-basil reduction, crispy artichokes, and farm-fresh fennel. All of the flavors were substantive enough to stand up to the accompanying Barrel 27 Zotovich Pinot Noir (2006), its smooth palate and berry-like flavors bringing the fruity hints of the dish to the forefront.

The 2006 McPrice Meyers L’Ange Rouge (Grenache) had a mild milk chocolate tinge mid-palate and mild tannins. Served alongside a grilled La Belle Farms quail, yam moussiline, baby beet greens, and fig marmalade with blackberry gastrique, the wine lent a refined note to this deliciously bold poultry course. JP smiled as he finished the last bite. “That fig marmalade is outta control!” he exclaimed. “And the yam? It’s bananas!” Indeed, the yam moussiline was almost too good to be true.

Next came a real shocker: coffee-crusted dry aged rib eye, the steak being a departure for Room Forty’s meat courses, which have usually been pork or something more exotic. The rib eye was tender and juicy, perfection in red meat. Topped with a Fourme d’ Ambert butter (which blew my mind) and atop a potato fondue beside some wild arugula and bourbon-caramel drizzle, this course was highlighted by the assertive 2006 Nuts and Bolts Syrah from Herman Story. The slightly oaky, cacao nib-scented wine cut through the thick sweetness of the potato and the savory butter. Truthfully, butter-topped steak smelled so amazing, I didn't even think to take a photo first. And after that initial bite...there was no stopping me. LOVE!

No dinner with Room Forty is complete without an astounding dessert. And this dessert was a show-stopper. The frozen chocolate graham cookie sandwich grabbed me first, the pillowy filling oozing out between the cakey cookies. Vanilla bombolinis, like tiny vanilla donut holes, sat in a puddle of white chocolate sauce. Tasty! Everyone in our area really enjoyed the spiced chocolate shot with mini marshmallows, the cinnamon and nutmeg in the chocolate giving way to the tiniest kick of cayenne or some other spice at the back of the throat. None of us could get enough of the hot chocolate, and it was truly dream-about-it-later delish!

Recurring Recap: Room Forty

It was another enchanted evening at the estate, with Room Forty’s ever-gracious staff circulating trays of deviled eggs (expectedly yum), sweetbreads nuggets (tastes like chicken, truly), soy-marinated albacore (better than tartare with flying fish roe), and goat cheese crostini (creamy goodness from Humboldt Fog). The 2006 Di Bruno Pinot Grigio, its stone fruit palate and grape skin nose picking up the flavors in the hors d’oeuvres, was a full-flavored treat.


For our first seated course, a perfectly seared day boat scallop sat atop a caramelized corn risotto, the earthy sweetness of which was heightened by the herbaceous basil oil that garnished the plate. Brown butter foam and Marsh grapefruit supreme balanced the plate with nuttiness and the tiniest bit of acid. The Meyer lemon-scented 2007 Grenache Blanc complemented this delish dish nicely.


Our next course was comprised of a shallow pool of roasted Cherokee tomato soup surrounding a hunk of smoked monkfish and petite mizuna greens with a delightful fennel seed cracker. The sweetness of the soup brought out the velvety tones of the accompanying 2005 Badge Pinot Noir.


The always amazing duck (confit this time) on stone ground grits came as our next course, the crisped skin and shaved fennel tying the flavors together beautifully. Slices of warm black plum matched well with the 2004 Di Bruno Sangiovese that was paired with this dish.


My favorite course was our final savory plate: braised boar shoulder and roasted fingerling potatoes with caramelized brussel sprout halves and bits of popped pork skin (a la chicharrones, fyi). The juicy boar, like porkier pork, was delicious with the 2005 Curran Reserve Syrah. The black forest cake finish of the wine highlighted the creaminess of the potatoes and the juiciness of the boar.

Dessert consisted of a rich chocolate torte topped with cassis glaze and wild blackberry cream piped into little blueberry shapes. There was a collective sigh of delight among my dinner companions when we took our first bites. Exquisite.

Room Forty gave us another superb experience, one that (for all its delectable bites and entertaining guests) they’ll have a hard time topping at the next event.

***Special thanks to Killa Bee and his song, which stayed in my head the whole way home! ☺

Chow Time at Animal

When JP and I heard that the Food Dudes’ newest venture on Fairfax was opening, we knew we had to try it. A week and a half ago, we finally got our wish.

The Dark Knight, JP, and I entered the spartan space with high hopes. Seeming to want their diners to focus only on the food and drink, owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have no décor to speak of, except for light bulbs and a polished concrete floor. Not a problem, for the three of us are exactly the kind of diners Animal was made for, omnivorous oenophiles. With every wine on the list available by the glass, carafe (half-bottle), or bottle—plus some unlisted wines on offer, if you know to ask—this appeared to be the kind of place we could get used to.

And indeed, it is.

With stomachs a-growl, we ordered three starters: tender, toothy, smoky ribs with piquant panzanella; melty, chorizo-heavy, gooey petit basque with crostini; meaty, smoky gravy smothering seared foie gras atop a biscuit base. Yes, our inner carnivores had taken over.

The ribs were expectedly delish, nearly falling off the bone. Paired with a vaguely oaky Spanish red, they blew the Dark Knight away. JP and I split the last bites of petit basque, a queso fundito kind of application, and the creamy foie. Sipping a yeasty French red made those final nibbles of foie even better.


For our mains, we shared the halibut, fried quail, and flatiron steak with sweetbreads nuggets. The halibut, our one nod to healthy eating, was juicy and moist. The steak was perfectly seasoned (I know, I’m obsessed with that) and the sweetbreads nuggets were so mildly flavored as to have almost no taste, save for the seasoned breading. One the one hand, I wish there was more flavor—but on the other, I’m glad I didn’t taste anything funky.

The real star of the table, though, was the fried quail. A heap of tiny halved birds deep-fried to a golden brown, this was the epitome of elevated comfort food. There are no more words, I…I think I’m addicted.

Never a group to shy away from unique flavor combinations, we opted for the chocolate crunch bacon bar as one of our desserts. The Dark Knight was most excited for this dish, as it embodies his two favorite things: sweet and salty. Tasting a bit like a candy bar, the dark ganache was punctuated by the smoky, crunchy bacon shards.

JP’s nectarine and blueberry cobbler, steaming hot and bubbling with goodness, tasted as though the fruits had just been picked that afternoon. The cobbler topping, crumbly and flaky, served to enhance the natural sweetness of the fruit.


My Bellweather ricotta drizzled with honey and served with toasted brioche points was refreshing and light. This is no ordinary ricotta here: fluffy and accented by a citrus-scented honey, it is the very essence of a simple, Italian-inspired dessert.

We may have entered Ditolo and Shook’s minimalist restaurant hungry like wolves, but we left sated and peaceful. Forget music to soothe the savage beast—send it to Animal!

Animal
435 N. Fairfax Ave. (near Oakwood Ave.)
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323-782-9225

Malibu Magic with Room Forty

Last weekend, the Dark Knight and I trekked deep into Malibu for another enchanted meal with Room Forty. With the sun slipping closer and closer to the horizon, we were concerned that our sweater-less outfits would prove unwise, but the weather was as magical as the meal.

The passed hors d’oeuvres included deviled eggs sprinkled with toasted slivered almonds, crostini topped with Humboldt Fog and clementine marmalade, beet juice-colored linguine, and sweet pea puree on housemade chips. The eggs and crostini were delicious, tweaked slightly from last month's dinner, but just as tasty. The linguine was perfectly cooked and the pea puree was, frankly, amazing. The 2007 Whitehawk Viognier that was served upon arrival had a bit of a honey nose, a hint of lychee on the palate, and green pear endnotes. When tasted with each of the various hors d’oeuvres, we discovered layers of flavors in both the dishes and wine that were brought out by the pairing.

Herman Story Wines was the featured winery of the night, with winemaker Russell From on hand to give brief notes about each tasting. One of the very best things about these winemaker dinners is talking to someone who really loves wine—but an unexpected perk is getting to taste wines that are not yet (or are about to be) on the market, like the Whitehawk and our next wine, the 2007 Tomboy blend of 40% Marsanne, 40% Roussane, and 20% Viognier.

This velvety wine was served with our first seated course, a mildly creamy roasted red corn bisque garnished with roasted pistachios. Drizzled with pistachio oil, and topped with an apple chip and slightly curried apple compote, this light soup was the perfect match to the Tomboy. The flavors combined to create a feeling of luxury and comfort.

The next course, subtly seasoned smoked Idaho trout over a forest mushroom salad with Pee Wee potatoes, mache, and thyme buerre blanc, was a hit at our table. Even those whose first experiences with smoked trout were less than stellar enjoyed this plate, especially when tasted with the vibrant 2006 Santa Barbara County Grenache.

One of our dining partners let out a low moan of pleasure when the next dish came out: juicy, perfectly seasoned Maple Leaf duck breast over a bed of Napa cabbage and duck confit. The accompanying yellow stone-ground grits and juniper demi-glace tied the entire plate together nicely. Paired with a vaguely raisin-scented 2004 San Luis Obispo County Syrah whose quiet plum flavor opened up beautifully, the succulent duck really shined. “The duck should get five stars,” noted Dr. K, as she finished the last bite of this, her favorite course.

The 2006 Nuts and Bolts Santa Barbara County Syrah tasted of dates and warmth, with a nicely rounded palate. It was served with my favorite course of the night, grilled veal loin over a soothing celery root puree with sautéed spring vegetables and red onion marmalade. The cotton onion nest provided a nice textural contrast, also adding a salt element to balance out the sweetness of the celery root puree and onion marmalade. I adored the veal over all else, though, its tenderness and flavor unmistakable and unique under the care of the highly talented Room Forty staff.

Dessert was a study in chocolate—chocolate banana cream pie with caramelized bananas and chantilly cream on one side, chocolate blackout cake layered with fluffy peanut butter mousse and peanut crisp on the other side. The banana side was heavenly, clouds of banana in a dark chocolate shell. The peanut butter side blew me away, though. Not too sweet, not too rich, the peanut butter mousse lent a wonderful textural foil to the slight tooth of the cake. It was the favorite of our table, a dessert I’m sure I’ll be dreaming about well into the next month.

A lovely final touch to the Room Forty experience was the mini muffin provided to guests, fluffy cake mixed with coconut and sprinkled with sugar. The note on the package says, “Good Morning,” promising a sweet start to the next day.

With stellar service, delicious food, a breathtaking venue, and wonderful wine, July’s Room Forty event was unforgettable.

Room for everyone at Room Forty

On a hot summer night, the Dark Knight and I piled into the car with the Killa Bee at the wheel and Sir James riding shotgun. Ensconced in the air-conditioned comfort of the Bee’s vehicle, the four of us enjoyed a leisurely ride through Pasadena, arriving at one of Alta Dena’s gated communities. Having passed muster, we entered a world far removed from the confines of the smog-filled big city that we inhabit.

At Room Forty’s June dinner, including wine from Justin Wines, hosts Steve and Nicole orchestrated the perfect Saturday dinner. Passed hors d’oeuvres included crostini topped with chevre and black peppered marmalade orange zest, burrata and heirloom tomatoes dressed in balsamic, and deviled white wine eggs. A refreshing 2007 Sauvignon Blanc kept us hydrated, as it were.

Once seated, bowls of corn and summer parsnip puree arrived before us. The toothsome stone fruit salsa garnish provided a lovely textural contrast to the smooth cool of the soup. While I love a good Chardonnay on a warm evening, the 2007 that was paired with this soup seemed a bit piquant when compared with the creamy, subtle sweetness of the soup.


The 2006 Syrah paired well with our fish course, roasted escolar cooked just to temperature. It’s a bold move to pair such a powerful wine with a white fish, but the earthiness of the meaty morels around the fish rounded out the developing truffle notes in the wine. My favorite component was the delicious, well-balanced brandy bacon cream sauce, its smoky flavor mitigating the sweetness of the squash puree foundation of the dish.

A slightly hammy smoked maple leaf duck comprised our poultry dish, with barely blanched baby carrot rounds and spring peas rounding out the plate. The cherry Cabernet sauce unsurprisingly went well with the 2006 Cabernet served with this course, though a 2004 would have tasted better. I found the 2006 to be a bit too young for consumption; only decanting an hour or two before service could have softened the tannic edges and green taste of the wine.

The ultimate pairing of the night was the Niman Ranch braised pork and cheesy, stone-ground grits in a Malbec reduction with the 2006 Justification. Definitely the star of all savory courses, the smoky, fork-tender pork was enhanced by the lush palate and dried huckleberry nose of the wine. This blended wine, Justin Wines’ signature release, was served almost at the peak of its bottle life. Its mouthfeel and endnotes reminded me of sugarplum candies, the smoothness reminiscent of dark cherry-scented dark chocolate.

The Dark Knight was most excited about dessert: a bar of bittersweet chocolate mousse, thick like a ganache but airy like a mousse, topped with a Bing cherry geleé shaped like cherry halves; and baked brie bombolini with apple chutney and apricot confit. The mousse was rich and velvety, bringing out the deep chocolate flavors of the 2006 Obtuse port that was paired with this final course. The bombolini, tiny bundles of pastry, brie, and apple, tasted like apple danishes taken to a higher level.

With a gorgeous setting, succulent food, and fabulous company, the four of us loved almost every moment of our Room Forty event. We can’t wait for the next one!

The Importance of Being Tasty

It’s rare that I’m blown away by food. Yes, lunching at REDD in Yountville rocks my world (oh, the foie gras trio!). And I do love the burger at Ravenous in Healdsburg, with its giant oven fries and roasted garlic cloves. But locally (local to my parents, that is), there is a place serving up beautifully innovative food that never forgets the importance of taste over all else.

Shokolaat in Palo Alto is one of those rare finds that makes fine dining accessible to every kind of diner. Starters like the salad of baby greens and micro-herbs with a Meyer lemon vinaigrette, or the caramelized scallops in a porcini mushroom and leek stew are appealing on a mass scale.

However, my first visit to Shokolaat wasn’t about playing it safe. For our starters, we enjoyed the gratin of escargot and bone marrow, an aromatic dish with mushrooms, confit of onions, spinach, and red wine sauce. The orange-scented cauliflower soup, a velvety puree accented with orange blossom water “caviar,” was exactly sweet enough to pair perfectly with the house-made olive rolls. Say what you will about molecular gastronomy, the burst of flavor provided by the “caviar” was absolutely divine.

Our entrees included the Mediterranean sea bass, the duck breast, and the Australian rack of lamb. The sea bass, accompanied by parsnip puree and braised cabbage, was plated with a smear of saffron emulsion. The saffron flavor was distinct, but not overpowering, lending the dish a refined taste.

The duck breast seemed to have been cooked sous vide, being at medium doneness all the way through. It was served with lightly seasoned roasted sweet potatoes sliced nearly paper-thin, supporting a bed of gorgeous ruby chard. The port wine reduction surrounding the duck was smooth and rich.

The Australian rack of lamb, generously portioned, was seared perfectly and came with a lamb reduction that tied together the savory meat and roasted flavor of the accompanying vegetable tian.

We ordered a bittersweet chocolate soufflé at the beginning of the meal, and it arrived with all the flair that you would expect: the waiter took two spoons, opened a cavity in the soufflé, and poured in the aged dark rum sauce. Heaven.

Our other dessert was the chocolate and caramel tart, its rich bittersweet chocolate upper layer tempered by the deep caramel beneath it. Reminiscent of the best parts of my favorite candy bar, this dessert was swoon-worthy.

Shokolaat has quickly become one of my parents’ favorite restaurants, and if I lived up there, it would be my favorite, too. As it is, I guess I’ll have to settle for the occasional magical meal—but I have a feeling I’ll be in need of a Shokolaat fix sooner, rather than later.

(The photos were taken with the camera on my phone, sorry for their grainy look!)

iTapas

Okay, okay, so maybe the name is a bit too dot-com to be cool. After all, that bubble burst a long time ago. But maybe that's alright. The tapas bubble seems not to have burst yet, and iTapas is one of many small plates restaurants to take this concept and add a California (read: Asian fusion) twist. Will iTapas survive the downward turn this trend is sure to take sometime this decade? Not being a fortune teller, I cannot predict. I can, however, talk about the food...

I have an unholy obsession with garlic. I will order almost anything with this most flavorful bulb as a main component. I've even tried garlic ice cream (and will again, once I buy an ice cream maker!). So it goes without saying that when we spied not one, but three garlicky dishes, I asserted that all three must be ordered. My suggestion was well-received, and we enjoyed the soft shell crab quick-fried in the manner of Chinese salt-and-pepper squid (fried in a light lacy batter, then tossed with salt, pepper, and chilis). Under the direction of owner Hung Le, this recipe gets an update: threads of garlic co-mingle with the rings of serrano and jalapeno peppers that cover each piece of crab, fighting for prominence with bits of scallion and the ever-present kosher salt.

Veering away from the Asian theme for a few plates, we devoured the simply prepared Brussels sprouts in a garlic, butter, wine sauce. This classic combination of flavors was complemented well by the two out of the three wines in my wine flight. Even more suited to the wines? The most popular tapas dish ever: garlic shrimp. A handful of plump shrimp are cooked gently in chili- and garlic-infused butter, then tossed with a bit of parsley and presented in a steaming hot mound rising from a pool of deliciously rich sauce. This was so good, I sopped up the rest of the garlicky goodness with some bread!

Speaking of sauces, the short ribs in a port wine reduction were delectable. Tender to the point of falling apart, bathed in a sinful, paprika-tinged sauce, this warranted another piece of bread to soak up every last flavorful bit. All three of the wines in my flight went well with this dish, though the Malbec seemed to work the best, its finish turning chocolatey after a bite of the beef.

Back on the Asian side, we really enjoyed the tempura green beans. They had just the barest coat of batter, and were served with an unexpected vinegar and soy sauce mixture, instead of the classic tempura sauce. Also on the table was the duck wonton in duck consomme. This dish comes with about seven wontons, each a little bigger than a large walnut. Flavored lightly with ginger, they are centered in a bowl half-filled with a delicately seasoned, yet utterly savory broth accented by thin shavings of scallion.

For dessert, we had the cheese plate and the miniature churros. The cheese plate came with three different (yet never identified) cheeses that we suspect included a brie, asiago, and port salut (though, really, we can't be certain). Also on the plate were parmesan crisps, crackers, quince paste, and an innovative grape salad--red seedless grapes, halved and showered with thin ribbons of mint leaf.

The churros were, predictably, wonderful. It's hard to go wrong with fried dough, especially when it's rolled in a super-sweet cinnamon-sugar mixture. The shot of hot chocolate that sat next to them was a bit too sweet for my taste, but I think most people would find it just fine for dipping.

Overall, this somewhat overwhelming trip around the world in eight plates was scrumptious. Next time I'm in town, I'll be back for more of that garlic shrimp!

iTapas
445 Emerson St.
Palo Alto, CA 94302
650.325.4400

Opus Restaurant

Wilshire Blvd. is one of the main streets of Los Angeles, from Santa Monica’s Promenade to the historic El Rey and Wiltern theatres. Nestled next to the Wiltern is yet another reason to get to know Wilshire from beginning to end. Opus Restaurant is a sleek, modern space finished with touches of dark-stained wood and lots and lots of glass. I’d heard from fellow foodie Brie that this was a spot worth visiting for drinks and lounging, but with the arrival of star chef Josef Centeno (formerly of the now-defunct Meson G), I decided this would be the perfect place to celebrate the Dark Knight’s birthday. Centeno has pared down the entire menu, resulting in a smaller selection of dishes per course. This change allows the kitchen to make better food, their concentration no longer split between dozens of entrees, but rather restricted to a handful of tempting plates.

We started with a glass of off-menu sparkling Spanish wine compliments of the chef and munched contentedly on bread from BreadBar while we chatted and perused the menu. Despite just a few offerings for each course, we still had difficulty deciding on dinner. Self-control is impossible when it comes to good bread, and the Dark Knight and I ended up stuffing ourselves before we had even ordered. Too full for our usual feast, we limited ourselves to lovingly prepared entrees: I had the roasted pork shoulder with garlic-chive aioli, while the Dark Knight ordered the sautéed tai (snapper) with charred romaine.

To accompany my entrée, the waiter suggested a glass of Malbec. Its slightly astringent finish cut through the melt-in-your-mouth pork fat, and the ripe berry palate highlighted the sweetness of the market-fresh asparagus and grape tomatoes atop which the pork was seated. The pork itself was a study in simplicity. Braised in what tasted like a deep red wine, shallots, and orange marmalade sauce (but don’t quote me on that), then slow roasted at a low temperature, the pork quite literally fell apart when I moved it off the mound of lightly sautéed vegetables. It retained its tender, juicy texture, and brought me back to my childhood.

The Dark Knight enjoyed a glass of the same Malbec before dinner, but decided to savor his snapper sans drink. Dressed in a kumquat reduction, both the fish and Romaine were tasty. The citrus aroma from the plate was gorgeous—heady and inviting. The outside of the tai was well-seasoned, a perfect crust on the outside and soft meat within. The Romaine leaves were surprisingly tasty due to the high heat method of cooking, which concentrated the natural sweetness of the lettuce.

Wonderfully sated, but craving something sugary, the Dark Knight and I shared a lemon cheesecake slice covered with strawberries macerated in Prosecco and complemented by a refreshing uzu sorbet. The cheesecake tasted more like a creamy version of the lemon bars that my mom used to bring home for me, and again, I reveled in the comforting sensation. The sorbet was lovely, a sublime scoop of icy goodness.

Beyond the nicely presented dishes and excellent taste combinations, Opus also has one of the nicest staffs I’ve ever encountered. From the doorman to the food runners to our friendly and knowledgeable waiter, the Dark Knight and I felt as though we were well-attended to during our visit. Opus has become on of our favorite local places to dine.


Opus Restaurant
3760 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
www.opusrestaurant.net

Cafe des Artistes

The Dark Knight and I celebrated our second anniversary earlier this month at Cafe des Artistes, a quaint Hollywood eatery tucked away on a side street just off Sunset Blvd. Located in a restored bungalow, the cafe boasts a covered front patio serving a limited menu from the kitchen and a full menu from the bar for casual nibblers and those who just want to hang out and chat.

The inside of this homey cafe is decorated with paintings and other artwork inspired by some of Europe's most famous artists. Wood tables and votive candles create a comfortable, elegantly casual atmosphere. But the real star is the food. The Dark Knight and I started with the escargot, served bubbling hot in the traditional mixture of butter, parsley, and garlic. My cabernet (Louis Martini '03, France) had just enough body and spice to cut through the oily creaminess of the perfectly soft and tender snails.

The Dark Knight enjoyed his filet mignon, reveling in the sharp bite of the peppercorn sauce. Served with frites, the filet was succulent, cooked to the ideal medium rare. I enjoyed my entree more, though. The table-prepared steak tartare is a show in itself, with the waiter spicing this mixture of finely chopped top-quality steak and accompaniments to my specifications. The cabernet held up well to this dish as well, lending a subtle sweetness to this very savory course.

For dessert, the Dark Knight and I shared the warm thin apple tart, topped with a rich vanilla bean ice cream. The apples were beautifully caramelized, though the crust was a bit too soggy for my taste. The crust is, of course, the truest test for any pastry chef, and I think we may simply have caught this one on an off night.

Overall, Cafe des Artistes lives up to its reputation as one of LA's best hidden jewels for French comfort food.

Cafe des Artistes
1534 N. McCadden Place
Hollywood, CA 90028
www.cafedesartistes.info

Restaurant O

I spent this past weekend in the Bay Area, visiting with family and friends. One night, we went to a restaurant that occupies a space I knew years ago as my favorite osso buco spot. Now, it's a tidy little space with upholstered walls, wood paneling, and twisted track lighting. Restaurant O boasts a comprehensive wine list, market fresh food, and a knowledgeable waitstaff that emphasizes wine pairings and witty banter.

We started with mussels roasted in a wood-burning oven, bathed in a lightly seasoned lemon butter sauce. Roasting the mussels gave them a slightly smoky flavor, but it also intensified the natural sweetness and softened the texture. They quite literally melted on the tongue. Also on the table was a Caesar salad with fried anchovies--lovely but not as memorable as what the menu calls a "strawberry napoleon." This dish consisted of layers of phyllo atop single leaves of buttery lime stone lettuce. The lettuce encased a small mound of tender pea shoots and bleu cheese drizzled with a wonderfully acidic strawberry balsamic vinaigrette. Scattered around the plate were thin slices of perfectly ripe strawberries, lending a subtle sweetness to each bite. My sauvignon blanc from Husch Vineyards ('05) played nicely with this appetizer, lightening the thick balsamic.

For our entrees, we had a raviolo filled with lentils and Dungess crab, sitting in a creamy Madeira obster sauce. There was a hint of anise in the sauce, enhancing the succulent crab meat. While I'm not a fan of lentils, they worked well with this dish, adding a nice texture to the filling. The huge veal chop was juicy and tender, the rosemary balsamic reduction serving as a piquant backdrop against the buttery meat. My favorite, however, was the seared scallops topped with pan-crisped foie gras. The grapefruit reduction bore no traces of the bitterness most people associate with grapefruit. Instead, there was simply a subtle citrus essence, which worked as a delectable foil against the apple relish that topped the dish. The scallops, sweet and moist, were accentuated by the creaminess of the foie gras. Again, the sauvignon blanc was a wonderful suggestion from our waiter; cutting through the heavy foie and bringing out the natural fresh flavor of the scallops, this wine was the best choice to accompany my dish.

Our dessert was a layer of cake soaked in coffee, the topped with chocolate and coffee mousse. The cake itself was perfect: rich and velvety, with a tender crumb and spongy texture. The mousse was light and airy, making for a dessert that was a perfect, if sinful, end to our meal.

While it is a bit of a drive from anywhere in the Bay Area, this Campbell restaurant is definitely worth a return visit. I left inspired by the creative flavor combinations, ready to try my hand at re-creating this excllent meal.

Restaurant O
2081 S. Winchester Blvd.
Campbell, CA 95008
www.restaurant-o.com