Opus Restaurant

Wilshire Blvd. is one of the main streets of Los Angeles, from Santa Monica’s Promenade to the historic El Rey and Wiltern theatres. Nestled next to the Wiltern is yet another reason to get to know Wilshire from beginning to end. Opus Restaurant is a sleek, modern space finished with touches of dark-stained wood and lots and lots of glass. I’d heard from fellow foodie Brie that this was a spot worth visiting for drinks and lounging, but with the arrival of star chef Josef Centeno (formerly of the now-defunct Meson G), I decided this would be the perfect place to celebrate the Dark Knight’s birthday. Centeno has pared down the entire menu, resulting in a smaller selection of dishes per course. This change allows the kitchen to make better food, their concentration no longer split between dozens of entrees, but rather restricted to a handful of tempting plates.

We started with a glass of off-menu sparkling Spanish wine compliments of the chef and munched contentedly on bread from BreadBar while we chatted and perused the menu. Despite just a few offerings for each course, we still had difficulty deciding on dinner. Self-control is impossible when it comes to good bread, and the Dark Knight and I ended up stuffing ourselves before we had even ordered. Too full for our usual feast, we limited ourselves to lovingly prepared entrees: I had the roasted pork shoulder with garlic-chive aioli, while the Dark Knight ordered the sautéed tai (snapper) with charred romaine.

To accompany my entrée, the waiter suggested a glass of Malbec. Its slightly astringent finish cut through the melt-in-your-mouth pork fat, and the ripe berry palate highlighted the sweetness of the market-fresh asparagus and grape tomatoes atop which the pork was seated. The pork itself was a study in simplicity. Braised in what tasted like a deep red wine, shallots, and orange marmalade sauce (but don’t quote me on that), then slow roasted at a low temperature, the pork quite literally fell apart when I moved it off the mound of lightly sautéed vegetables. It retained its tender, juicy texture, and brought me back to my childhood.

The Dark Knight enjoyed a glass of the same Malbec before dinner, but decided to savor his snapper sans drink. Dressed in a kumquat reduction, both the fish and Romaine were tasty. The citrus aroma from the plate was gorgeous—heady and inviting. The outside of the tai was well-seasoned, a perfect crust on the outside and soft meat within. The Romaine leaves were surprisingly tasty due to the high heat method of cooking, which concentrated the natural sweetness of the lettuce.

Wonderfully sated, but craving something sugary, the Dark Knight and I shared a lemon cheesecake slice covered with strawberries macerated in Prosecco and complemented by a refreshing uzu sorbet. The cheesecake tasted more like a creamy version of the lemon bars that my mom used to bring home for me, and again, I reveled in the comforting sensation. The sorbet was lovely, a sublime scoop of icy goodness.

Beyond the nicely presented dishes and excellent taste combinations, Opus also has one of the nicest staffs I’ve ever encountered. From the doorman to the food runners to our friendly and knowledgeable waiter, the Dark Knight and I felt as though we were well-attended to during our visit. Opus has become on of our favorite local places to dine.


Opus Restaurant
3760 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
www.opusrestaurant.net