Room Forty Goes Downtown

The late summer evenings are balmy here in LA, cloudless skies providing a peaceful backdrop to palm trees and skyscrapers alike. Bringing the tranquility of the outdoors in, Room Forty held this month’s wine dinner at The Farmers and Merchants Bank on 4th and Main. The dramatically long dinner table held all of us bohemians, side by side by side, comfortable among friends both new and old—including winemakers Russell From and McPrice “Mac” Meyers.

As usual, we started with a chilled pour of a friendly white wine. This time, it was a 2007 High on the Hog blend of Marsanne, Roussane, and Viogner from Paso Robles.

My college chum, JP, joined us this month with his friend T. Never having experienced the goodness that is Room Forty, they were pleasantly surprised at how seamlessly the wines were paired with the food. JP especially enjoyed the Whitehawk Viognier, the first wine poured once we were seated. It was snappy, with a hint of spice that is surprising for a wine of this type. The clam chowder shooter that came for our amuse bouche was a good balance for the wine. Also paired with this wine was our opening course, beautiful brandywine tomatoes with sumptuous burrata and baby basil drizzled with a wonderfully syrupy balsamic reduction.

A meaty pan-roasted sturgeon was next, accented with [ichiline olives, artichoke-basil reduction, crispy artichokes, and farm-fresh fennel. All of the flavors were substantive enough to stand up to the accompanying Barrel 27 Zotovich Pinot Noir (2006), its smooth palate and berry-like flavors bringing the fruity hints of the dish to the forefront.

The 2006 McPrice Meyers L’Ange Rouge (Grenache) had a mild milk chocolate tinge mid-palate and mild tannins. Served alongside a grilled La Belle Farms quail, yam moussiline, baby beet greens, and fig marmalade with blackberry gastrique, the wine lent a refined note to this deliciously bold poultry course. JP smiled as he finished the last bite. “That fig marmalade is outta control!” he exclaimed. “And the yam? It’s bananas!” Indeed, the yam moussiline was almost too good to be true.

Next came a real shocker: coffee-crusted dry aged rib eye, the steak being a departure for Room Forty’s meat courses, which have usually been pork or something more exotic. The rib eye was tender and juicy, perfection in red meat. Topped with a Fourme d’ Ambert butter (which blew my mind) and atop a potato fondue beside some wild arugula and bourbon-caramel drizzle, this course was highlighted by the assertive 2006 Nuts and Bolts Syrah from Herman Story. The slightly oaky, cacao nib-scented wine cut through the thick sweetness of the potato and the savory butter. Truthfully, butter-topped steak smelled so amazing, I didn't even think to take a photo first. And after that initial bite...there was no stopping me. LOVE!

No dinner with Room Forty is complete without an astounding dessert. And this dessert was a show-stopper. The frozen chocolate graham cookie sandwich grabbed me first, the pillowy filling oozing out between the cakey cookies. Vanilla bombolinis, like tiny vanilla donut holes, sat in a puddle of white chocolate sauce. Tasty! Everyone in our area really enjoyed the spiced chocolate shot with mini marshmallows, the cinnamon and nutmeg in the chocolate giving way to the tiniest kick of cayenne or some other spice at the back of the throat. None of us could get enough of the hot chocolate, and it was truly dream-about-it-later delish!

Chow Time at Animal

When JP and I heard that the Food Dudes’ newest venture on Fairfax was opening, we knew we had to try it. A week and a half ago, we finally got our wish.

The Dark Knight, JP, and I entered the spartan space with high hopes. Seeming to want their diners to focus only on the food and drink, owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo have no décor to speak of, except for light bulbs and a polished concrete floor. Not a problem, for the three of us are exactly the kind of diners Animal was made for, omnivorous oenophiles. With every wine on the list available by the glass, carafe (half-bottle), or bottle—plus some unlisted wines on offer, if you know to ask—this appeared to be the kind of place we could get used to.

And indeed, it is.

With stomachs a-growl, we ordered three starters: tender, toothy, smoky ribs with piquant panzanella; melty, chorizo-heavy, gooey petit basque with crostini; meaty, smoky gravy smothering seared foie gras atop a biscuit base. Yes, our inner carnivores had taken over.

The ribs were expectedly delish, nearly falling off the bone. Paired with a vaguely oaky Spanish red, they blew the Dark Knight away. JP and I split the last bites of petit basque, a queso fundito kind of application, and the creamy foie. Sipping a yeasty French red made those final nibbles of foie even better.


For our mains, we shared the halibut, fried quail, and flatiron steak with sweetbreads nuggets. The halibut, our one nod to healthy eating, was juicy and moist. The steak was perfectly seasoned (I know, I’m obsessed with that) and the sweetbreads nuggets were so mildly flavored as to have almost no taste, save for the seasoned breading. One the one hand, I wish there was more flavor—but on the other, I’m glad I didn’t taste anything funky.

The real star of the table, though, was the fried quail. A heap of tiny halved birds deep-fried to a golden brown, this was the epitome of elevated comfort food. There are no more words, I…I think I’m addicted.

Never a group to shy away from unique flavor combinations, we opted for the chocolate crunch bacon bar as one of our desserts. The Dark Knight was most excited for this dish, as it embodies his two favorite things: sweet and salty. Tasting a bit like a candy bar, the dark ganache was punctuated by the smoky, crunchy bacon shards.

JP’s nectarine and blueberry cobbler, steaming hot and bubbling with goodness, tasted as though the fruits had just been picked that afternoon. The cobbler topping, crumbly and flaky, served to enhance the natural sweetness of the fruit.


My Bellweather ricotta drizzled with honey and served with toasted brioche points was refreshing and light. This is no ordinary ricotta here: fluffy and accented by a citrus-scented honey, it is the very essence of a simple, Italian-inspired dessert.

We may have entered Ditolo and Shook’s minimalist restaurant hungry like wolves, but we left sated and peaceful. Forget music to soothe the savage beast—send it to Animal!

Animal
435 N. Fairfax Ave. (near Oakwood Ave.)
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323-782-9225

Malibu Magic with Room Forty

Last weekend, the Dark Knight and I trekked deep into Malibu for another enchanted meal with Room Forty. With the sun slipping closer and closer to the horizon, we were concerned that our sweater-less outfits would prove unwise, but the weather was as magical as the meal.

The passed hors d’oeuvres included deviled eggs sprinkled with toasted slivered almonds, crostini topped with Humboldt Fog and clementine marmalade, beet juice-colored linguine, and sweet pea puree on housemade chips. The eggs and crostini were delicious, tweaked slightly from last month's dinner, but just as tasty. The linguine was perfectly cooked and the pea puree was, frankly, amazing. The 2007 Whitehawk Viognier that was served upon arrival had a bit of a honey nose, a hint of lychee on the palate, and green pear endnotes. When tasted with each of the various hors d’oeuvres, we discovered layers of flavors in both the dishes and wine that were brought out by the pairing.

Herman Story Wines was the featured winery of the night, with winemaker Russell From on hand to give brief notes about each tasting. One of the very best things about these winemaker dinners is talking to someone who really loves wine—but an unexpected perk is getting to taste wines that are not yet (or are about to be) on the market, like the Whitehawk and our next wine, the 2007 Tomboy blend of 40% Marsanne, 40% Roussane, and 20% Viognier.

This velvety wine was served with our first seated course, a mildly creamy roasted red corn bisque garnished with roasted pistachios. Drizzled with pistachio oil, and topped with an apple chip and slightly curried apple compote, this light soup was the perfect match to the Tomboy. The flavors combined to create a feeling of luxury and comfort.

The next course, subtly seasoned smoked Idaho trout over a forest mushroom salad with Pee Wee potatoes, mache, and thyme buerre blanc, was a hit at our table. Even those whose first experiences with smoked trout were less than stellar enjoyed this plate, especially when tasted with the vibrant 2006 Santa Barbara County Grenache.

One of our dining partners let out a low moan of pleasure when the next dish came out: juicy, perfectly seasoned Maple Leaf duck breast over a bed of Napa cabbage and duck confit. The accompanying yellow stone-ground grits and juniper demi-glace tied the entire plate together nicely. Paired with a vaguely raisin-scented 2004 San Luis Obispo County Syrah whose quiet plum flavor opened up beautifully, the succulent duck really shined. “The duck should get five stars,” noted Dr. K, as she finished the last bite of this, her favorite course.

The 2006 Nuts and Bolts Santa Barbara County Syrah tasted of dates and warmth, with a nicely rounded palate. It was served with my favorite course of the night, grilled veal loin over a soothing celery root puree with sautéed spring vegetables and red onion marmalade. The cotton onion nest provided a nice textural contrast, also adding a salt element to balance out the sweetness of the celery root puree and onion marmalade. I adored the veal over all else, though, its tenderness and flavor unmistakable and unique under the care of the highly talented Room Forty staff.

Dessert was a study in chocolate—chocolate banana cream pie with caramelized bananas and chantilly cream on one side, chocolate blackout cake layered with fluffy peanut butter mousse and peanut crisp on the other side. The banana side was heavenly, clouds of banana in a dark chocolate shell. The peanut butter side blew me away, though. Not too sweet, not too rich, the peanut butter mousse lent a wonderful textural foil to the slight tooth of the cake. It was the favorite of our table, a dessert I’m sure I’ll be dreaming about well into the next month.

A lovely final touch to the Room Forty experience was the mini muffin provided to guests, fluffy cake mixed with coconut and sprinkled with sugar. The note on the package says, “Good Morning,” promising a sweet start to the next day.

With stellar service, delicious food, a breathtaking venue, and wonderful wine, July’s Room Forty event was unforgettable.

Cookies and chocolate and brownies...oh my!

Well, here we go. This is the first of many posts about finding, eating, and cooking some of my favorite things.

Yesterday was a slightly messy, mostly delicious day. After searching allrecipes.com for a butter cookie recipe that would yield slightly crisp, not-too-sweet cookies, I finally found a recipe that almost suits my needs (search "Classic Butter Cookies II"). I'm a bit snooty when it comes to cookies, and I wanted a crisper product with more interesting flavoring. So what's a girl to do? Why, tweak the recipe, of course.

Crisp Butter Cookies
I cut these with mini cookie cutters to make butterflies and daisies, then decorated them with writing chocolate. The cookies are just sweet enough, with a nice bite to them. They'll keep at room temperature in an airtight container for 2 weeks.

1 1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
1 egg
1 egg white, beaten until frothy
1/2 tsp. vanilla, almond, or lemon extract (I prefer lemon for a fresh zing on the palate)
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1. Cream together butter and sugar, beating until light and fluffy. Add in egg, egg white, and extract.
2. Gradually add flour, one third at a time, on low speed. Mix until just incorporated.
3. Form into a ball and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 1 hour.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper or silicon non-stick mats (e.g. Silpats).
5. Roll out dough on well-floured surface to 1/8'' thickness. Be sure to turn dough gently between rolls to ensure even thickness and prevent sticking. Cut out shapes with cookies cutters and move carefully with a spatula onto cookie sheets.
6. Bake 8-10 minutes, rotating halfway through time. Immediately move to wire rack for cooling.


Writing Chocolate
This recipe uses leftover chocolate chips or chunks from other projects. Placing the chocolate-decorated cookies in the freezer or refrigerator allows the chocolate to harden and set, but the chocolate will begin to melt again if left out for over an hour. Makes enough to sparingly decorate the above recipe.

1/2 cup chocolate chips or chunks (bittersweet or unsweetened works best)
1 tbs. vegetable oil

1. Combine both ingredients in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds at a time, stirring each time, until chocolate is almost melted.
2. Remove from microwave carefully, then stir the mixture until chocolate melts completely.
3. Spoon chocolate into piping bag fitted with your smallest tip, or into a sandwich-sized zip-top bag for decorating. If using the zip-top bag, snip off just the very corner (enough to make an opening the diameter of a pen tip). Decorate cookies carefully, then let set for 30 minutes before putting in freezer to harden chocolate.

Melted chocolate is a little messy, even with my zip-top bag perched in a water glass, open and ready to be filled. I've found it's best to use this method, along with a small silicon spatula, for scraping chocolate or royal icing into improvised piping bags. But it's no big loss if there's any spillage, as long as you keep it on your fingers. Tasty mishaps :)

Another of my favorite derivative recipes is the one for what I like to call "Spiced Chocolate Cupcake Brownies." It goes perfectly with the "Spiced Chocolate Frosting," another adjusted recipe. I found both original recipes on allrecipes.com, the first one"Cupcake Brownies," and the second "Chocolate Fudge Frosting."

Spiced Chocolate Brownie Cupcakes
These brownies are cooked in mini-cupcake liners, and taste like Mexican hot chocolate. Not too sweet, not too fudgy, but perfectly spicy! Makes about 5 dozen mini-cupcake sized brownies.

1 cup butter
1/8 tsp. ancho chili powder
1/4 tsp. chili powder
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. salt
4 oz. semi-sweet chocolate squares or chips
4 eggs
1 3/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1/2 tsp. coffee (or coffee-flavored liqueur)
1 cup flour

1. In a small saucepan, melt together over low heat butter, ancho and regular chili powder, cinnamon, salt, and chocolate. Stir constantly. Let cool for 10 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place mini-cupcake liners in mini-cupcake pan.
3. In a large mixing bowl, beat together eggs and sugar until light in color.
4. Add in vanilla and coffee, then beat in chocolate mixture. Stir in flour, combining thoroughly.
5. Fill mini-cupcake liners 2/3 full using a melon baller or mini-ice cream scoop. Bake for 7-10 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in the middle comes out crumby and slightly fudgy looking. Cool in pan for 5 minutes, then remove and cool on wire rack. Frost with Spicy Chocolate Frosting if desired.


Spicy Chocolate Frosting
Light and fluffy, this frosting sets up nicely in the refrigerator. Keeps for 1 week in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Whip leftovers before using again. Makes enough to frost the entire above recipe.

1/2 cup butter, cut into small cubes
3 oz. unsweetened chocolate squares or chips
1/4 tsp. ancho chili powder
1 lb. confectioners' sugar
1/2 tsp. vanilla
1/2 cup milk

1. In a microwaveable bowl, combine butter, chocolate, and ancho. Microwave in 20 second increments, stirring each time, until chocolate is just melted.
2. In a large bowl, beat together sugar, vanilla, and milk. Add chocolate mixture, combining thoroughly.
3. Let stand until spreadable. Mixture will thicken as it cools. If it is too stiff after cooling, re-whip, adding 1 tbs. milk at a time until desired consistency is reached. Put into piping bag with a large star tip to frost above recipe, or use an offset spatula to frost an 8'' round cake.