The Importance of Being Tasty

It’s rare that I’m blown away by food. Yes, lunching at REDD in Yountville rocks my world (oh, the foie gras trio!). And I do love the burger at Ravenous in Healdsburg, with its giant oven fries and roasted garlic cloves. But locally (local to my parents, that is), there is a place serving up beautifully innovative food that never forgets the importance of taste over all else.

Shokolaat in Palo Alto is one of those rare finds that makes fine dining accessible to every kind of diner. Starters like the salad of baby greens and micro-herbs with a Meyer lemon vinaigrette, or the caramelized scallops in a porcini mushroom and leek stew are appealing on a mass scale.

However, my first visit to Shokolaat wasn’t about playing it safe. For our starters, we enjoyed the gratin of escargot and bone marrow, an aromatic dish with mushrooms, confit of onions, spinach, and red wine sauce. The orange-scented cauliflower soup, a velvety puree accented with orange blossom water “caviar,” was exactly sweet enough to pair perfectly with the house-made olive rolls. Say what you will about molecular gastronomy, the burst of flavor provided by the “caviar” was absolutely divine.

Our entrees included the Mediterranean sea bass, the duck breast, and the Australian rack of lamb. The sea bass, accompanied by parsnip puree and braised cabbage, was plated with a smear of saffron emulsion. The saffron flavor was distinct, but not overpowering, lending the dish a refined taste.

The duck breast seemed to have been cooked sous vide, being at medium doneness all the way through. It was served with lightly seasoned roasted sweet potatoes sliced nearly paper-thin, supporting a bed of gorgeous ruby chard. The port wine reduction surrounding the duck was smooth and rich.

The Australian rack of lamb, generously portioned, was seared perfectly and came with a lamb reduction that tied together the savory meat and roasted flavor of the accompanying vegetable tian.

We ordered a bittersweet chocolate soufflé at the beginning of the meal, and it arrived with all the flair that you would expect: the waiter took two spoons, opened a cavity in the soufflé, and poured in the aged dark rum sauce. Heaven.

Our other dessert was the chocolate and caramel tart, its rich bittersweet chocolate upper layer tempered by the deep caramel beneath it. Reminiscent of the best parts of my favorite candy bar, this dessert was swoon-worthy.

Shokolaat has quickly become one of my parents’ favorite restaurants, and if I lived up there, it would be my favorite, too. As it is, I guess I’ll have to settle for the occasional magical meal—but I have a feeling I’ll be in need of a Shokolaat fix sooner, rather than later.

(The photos were taken with the camera on my phone, sorry for their grainy look!)

Cafe des Artistes

The Dark Knight and I celebrated our second anniversary earlier this month at Cafe des Artistes, a quaint Hollywood eatery tucked away on a side street just off Sunset Blvd. Located in a restored bungalow, the cafe boasts a covered front patio serving a limited menu from the kitchen and a full menu from the bar for casual nibblers and those who just want to hang out and chat.

The inside of this homey cafe is decorated with paintings and other artwork inspired by some of Europe's most famous artists. Wood tables and votive candles create a comfortable, elegantly casual atmosphere. But the real star is the food. The Dark Knight and I started with the escargot, served bubbling hot in the traditional mixture of butter, parsley, and garlic. My cabernet (Louis Martini '03, France) had just enough body and spice to cut through the oily creaminess of the perfectly soft and tender snails.

The Dark Knight enjoyed his filet mignon, reveling in the sharp bite of the peppercorn sauce. Served with frites, the filet was succulent, cooked to the ideal medium rare. I enjoyed my entree more, though. The table-prepared steak tartare is a show in itself, with the waiter spicing this mixture of finely chopped top-quality steak and accompaniments to my specifications. The cabernet held up well to this dish as well, lending a subtle sweetness to this very savory course.

For dessert, the Dark Knight and I shared the warm thin apple tart, topped with a rich vanilla bean ice cream. The apples were beautifully caramelized, though the crust was a bit too soggy for my taste. The crust is, of course, the truest test for any pastry chef, and I think we may simply have caught this one on an off night.

Overall, Cafe des Artistes lives up to its reputation as one of LA's best hidden jewels for French comfort food.

Cafe des Artistes
1534 N. McCadden Place
Hollywood, CA 90028
www.cafedesartistes.info