22 July 2008

Malibu Magic with Room Forty


Last weekend, the Dark Knight and I trekked deep into Malibu for another enchanted meal with Room Forty. With the sun slipping closer and closer to the horizon, we were concerned that our sweater-less outfits would prove unwise, but the weather was as magical as the meal.

The passed hors d’oeuvres included deviled eggs sprinkled with toasted slivered almonds, crostini topped with Humboldt Fog and clementine marmalade, beet juice-colored linguine, and sweet pea puree on housemade chips. The eggs and crostini were delicious, tweaked slightly from last month's dinner, but just as tasty. The linguine was perfectly cooked and the pea puree was, frankly, amazing. The 2007 Whitehawk Viognier that was served upon arrival had a bit of a honey nose, a hint of lychee on the palate, and green pear endnotes. When tasted with each of the various hors d’oeuvres, we discovered layers of flavors in both the dishes and wine that were brought out by the pairing.

Herman Story Wines was the featured winery of the night, with winemaker Russell From on hand to give brief notes about each tasting. One of the very best things about these winemaker dinners is talking to someone who really loves wine—but an unexpected perk is getting to taste wines that are not yet (or are about to be) on the market, like the Whitehawk and our next wine, the 2007 Tomboy blend of 40% Marsanne, 40% Roussane, and 20% Viognier.

This velvety wine was served with our first seated course, a mildly creamy roasted red corn bisque garnished with roasted pistachios. Drizzled with pistachio oil, and topped with an apple chip and slightly curried apple compote, this light soup was the perfect match to the Tomboy. The flavors combined to create a feeling of luxury and comfort.

The next course, subtly seasoned smoked Idaho trout over a forest mushroom salad with Pee Wee potatoes, mache, and thyme buerre blanc, was a hit at our table. Even those whose first experiences with smoked trout were less than stellar enjoyed this plate, especially when tasted with the vibrant 2006 Santa Barbara County Grenache.

One of our dining partners let out a low moan of pleasure when the next dish came out: juicy, perfectly seasoned Maple Leaf duck breast over a bed of Napa cabbage and duck confit. The accompanying yellow stone-ground grits and juniper demi-glace tied the entire plate together nicely. Paired with a vaguely raisin-scented 2004 San Luis Obispo County Syrah whose quiet plum flavor opened up beautifully, the succulent duck really shined. “The duck should get five stars,” noted Dr. K, as she finished the last bite of this, her favorite course.

The 2006 Nuts and Bolts Santa Barbara County Syrah tasted of dates and warmth, with a nicely rounded palate. It was served with my favorite course of the night, grilled veal loin over a soothing celery root puree with sautéed spring vegetables and red onion marmalade. The cotton onion nest provided a nice textural contrast, also adding a salt element to balance out the sweetness of the celery root puree and onion marmalade. I adored the veal over all else, though, its tenderness and flavor unmistakable and unique under the care of the highly talented Room Forty staff.

Dessert was a study in chocolate—chocolate banana cream pie with caramelized bananas and chantilly cream on one side, chocolate blackout cake layered with fluffy peanut butter mousse and peanut crisp on the other side. The banana side was heavenly, clouds of banana in a dark chocolate shell. The peanut butter side blew me away, though. Not too sweet, not too rich, the peanut butter mousse lent a wonderful textural foil to the slight tooth of the cake. It was the favorite of our table, a dessert I’m sure I’ll be dreaming about well into the next month.

A lovely final touch to the Room Forty experience was the mini muffin provided to guests, fluffy cake mixed with coconut and sprinkled with sugar. The note on the package says, “Good Morning,” promising a sweet start to the next day.

With stellar service, delicious food, a breathtaking venue, and wonderful wine, July’s Room Forty event was unforgettable.

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