03 May 2008

Rise, revisited


I spent last night in the company of some lovely people, foodies eager to experience the new menu at Rise. The decor remains the same, as sleek and modern as before. Likewise, the service is still accommodating and courteous, with the drinks being even better than I remember (though that may just be my drink choice--dirty Ketel martinis are typically tastier than vodka/sodas).

Anyway, this wasn't a case of tasting slightly tweaked dishes familiar in that setting. It was, instead, an entirely different experience. With the seven-course tasting menu gone, the savory menu is broken into three parts: quick plates (small dishes like Thai glass noodles with shrimp and veggies or the trio of Mediterranean dips including olive [some sort of tapenade?], chick pea [hummus?], and eggplant [baba ganoush?]) that my table decided against because we were saving ourselves for dessert; small plates like the Dark Knight's favorite spicy tuna tartare, beet carpaccio (beets are my current most-craved veggie), and mini turkey burgers with sweet potato fries; and big plates including Wagyu beef filet mignon, chicken and gnocchi, and pad thai.

Our starters were uniformly tasty. Those in my party who ordered the spicy tuna tartare enjoyed the nice texture balance between the tuna and the crispy rice topper. I loved my beet carpaccio, the tender beets' sweetness tempered by the salty feta and zesty grapefruit vinaigrette.

For our main dishes, the Dark Knight virtually inhaled his Wagyu beef filet mignon. It appeared that the peppercorn sauce and corn agnolotti were delish--though the only thing I got to taste from his plate was the perfection of his Peruvian purple potatoes. The chicken and gnocchi dish was surprisingly interesting, the chicken retaining its flavor and natural juices, and the slightly caramelized gnocchi lending a delightful counterpoint to the fresh, green taste of the asparagus. While not exactly traditional in presentation, I must point out the gnocchi was light, fluffy, and incredibly flavorful.

I went against the grain and ordered a small plate for my main course: the mini turkey burgers. These succulent patties were certainly a pleasant surprise, with their robust seasonings lending them the flavor of my favorite dumpling filling. The glossy buns and accompanying cornichon provided a wonderful counterpoint to the piquant seasonings of the burger. As always, sweet potato fries were a welcome addition to the plate.

Our desserts were equally impressive. Beautifully tart lemon squares cut into triangles adorned every plate, with offerings like rich truffle cake, banana cream pie, pecan pie, and chocolate mousse in the lead roles. One thing I can always count on at Rise is an extraordinary dessert experience. My favorite was the pecan pie, chock full of pecans, buttery and sweet. The pie crust is among my Top 10 in Los Angeles, flaky and subtle to soften the sweetness of the filling.

This pre-club dinner satisfied everyone in our party, and left us eager to try the rest of Rise's re-imagined menu--even on a night that we don't plan on partying at the club downstairs.

Rise

The Highlands Nightclub
Hollywood and Highland entertainment complex
6801 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028
323.461.9800