25 June 2008

Room for everyone at Room Forty

On a hot summer night, the Dark Knight and I piled into the car with the Killa Bee at the wheel and Sir James riding shotgun. Ensconced in the air-conditioned comfort of the Bee’s vehicle, the four of us enjoyed a leisurely ride through Pasadena, arriving at one of Alta Dena’s gated communities. Having passed muster, we entered a world far removed from the confines of the smog-filled big city that we inhabit.

At Room Forty’s June dinner, including wine from Justin Wines, hosts Steve and Nicole orchestrated the perfect Saturday dinner. Passed hors d’oeuvres included crostini topped with chevre and black peppered marmalade orange zest, burrata and heirloom tomatoes dressed in balsamic, and deviled white wine eggs. A refreshing 2007 Sauvignon Blanc kept us hydrated, as it were.

Once seated, bowls of corn and summer parsnip puree arrived before us. The toothsome stone fruit salsa garnish provided a lovely textural contrast to the smooth cool of the soup. While I love a good Chardonnay on a warm evening, the 2007 that was paired with this soup seemed a bit piquant when compared with the creamy, subtle sweetness of the soup.


The 2006 Syrah paired well with our fish course, roasted escolar cooked just to temperature. It’s a bold move to pair such a powerful wine with a white fish, but the earthiness of the meaty morels around the fish rounded out the developing truffle notes in the wine. My favorite component was the delicious, well-balanced brandy bacon cream sauce, its smoky flavor mitigating the sweetness of the squash puree foundation of the dish.

A slightly hammy smoked maple leaf duck comprised our poultry dish, with barely blanched baby carrot rounds and spring peas rounding out the plate. The cherry Cabernet sauce unsurprisingly went well with the 2006 Cabernet served with this course, though a 2004 would have tasted better. I found the 2006 to be a bit too young for consumption; only decanting an hour or two before service could have softened the tannic edges and green taste of the wine.

The ultimate pairing of the night was the Niman Ranch braised pork and cheesy, stone-ground grits in a Malbec reduction with the 2006 Justification. Definitely the star of all savory courses, the smoky, fork-tender pork was enhanced by the lush palate and dried huckleberry nose of the wine. This blended wine, Justin Wines’ signature release, was served almost at the peak of its bottle life. Its mouthfeel and endnotes reminded me of sugarplum candies, the smoothness reminiscent of dark cherry-scented dark chocolate.

The Dark Knight was most excited about dessert: a bar of bittersweet chocolate mousse, thick like a ganache but airy like a mousse, topped with a Bing cherry geleƩ shaped like cherry halves; and baked brie bombolini with apple chutney and apricot confit. The mousse was rich and velvety, bringing out the deep chocolate flavors of the 2006 Obtuse port that was paired with this final course. The bombolini, tiny bundles of pastry, brie, and apple, tasted like apple danishes taken to a higher level.

With a gorgeous setting, succulent food, and fabulous company, the four of us loved almost every moment of our Room Forty event. We can’t wait for the next one!