Rise, revisited

I spent last night in the company of some lovely people, foodies eager to experience the new menu at Rise. The decor remains the same, as sleek and modern as before. Likewise, the service is still accommodating and courteous, with the drinks being even better than I remember (though that may just be my drink choice--dirty Ketel martinis are typically tastier than vodka/sodas).

Anyway, this wasn't a case of tasting slightly tweaked dishes familiar in that setting. It was, instead, an entirely different experience. With the seven-course tasting menu gone, the savory menu is broken into three parts: quick plates (small dishes like Thai glass noodles with shrimp and veggies or the trio of Mediterranean dips including olive [some sort of tapenade?], chick pea [hummus?], and eggplant [baba ganoush?]) that my table decided against because we were saving ourselves for dessert; small plates like the Dark Knight's favorite spicy tuna tartare, beet carpaccio (beets are my current most-craved veggie), and mini turkey burgers with sweet potato fries; and big plates including Wagyu beef filet mignon, chicken and gnocchi, and pad thai.

Our starters were uniformly tasty. Those in my party who ordered the spicy tuna tartare enjoyed the nice texture balance between the tuna and the crispy rice topper. I loved my beet carpaccio, the tender beets' sweetness tempered by the salty feta and zesty grapefruit vinaigrette.

For our main dishes, the Dark Knight virtually inhaled his Wagyu beef filet mignon. It appeared that the peppercorn sauce and corn agnolotti were delish--though the only thing I got to taste from his plate was the perfection of his Peruvian purple potatoes. The chicken and gnocchi dish was surprisingly interesting, the chicken retaining its flavor and natural juices, and the slightly caramelized gnocchi lending a delightful counterpoint to the fresh, green taste of the asparagus. While not exactly traditional in presentation, I must point out the gnocchi was light, fluffy, and incredibly flavorful.

I went against the grain and ordered a small plate for my main course: the mini turkey burgers. These succulent patties were certainly a pleasant surprise, with their robust seasonings lending them the flavor of my favorite dumpling filling. The glossy buns and accompanying cornichon provided a wonderful counterpoint to the piquant seasonings of the burger. As always, sweet potato fries were a welcome addition to the plate.

Our desserts were equally impressive. Beautifully tart lemon squares cut into triangles adorned every plate, with offerings like rich truffle cake, banana cream pie, pecan pie, and chocolate mousse in the lead roles. One thing I can always count on at Rise is an extraordinary dessert experience. My favorite was the pecan pie, chock full of pecans, buttery and sweet. The pie crust is among my Top 10 in Los Angeles, flaky and subtle to soften the sweetness of the filling.

This pre-club dinner satisfied everyone in our party, and left us eager to try the rest of Rise's re-imagined menu--even on a night that we don't plan on partying at the club downstairs.

Rise
The Highlands Nightclub
Hollywood and Highland entertainment complex
6801 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028
323.461.9800

Hooray for Strawberries!

It's nearly summer, though from the heat in Los Angeles, it feels like we should be prepping our grills and seasoning our Fourth of July burgers already.

But since it's really only April, and strawberries are cheap and fresh and oh-so-sweet, it's time to celebrate the Farmer's Market bounty instead.

I woke up starving this morning, probably a result of my itty-bitty dinner last night. Rather than the big weekend breakfast that I was craving, I decided to start on getting my daily recommended serving of fruits...

Strawberry-Stuffed French Toast
No need to run to IHOP, people. You can put together this moderately healthy treat for yourself in 15 minutes.

Serves 4.

1/2 loaf bread, sliced into 1 to 1 1/14 inch thick slices
5 large strawberries, washed and pitted
4 tbsp. fat-free cream cheese, softened
2 tbsp. sugar or sweetener
2 eggs
1 tbsp. skim or low-fat milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. powdered sugar or sweetener
4 strawberries, washed and pitted, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. Mash together strawberries, cream cheese, and sugar. I like to throw it all into my mini-blender (gotta love that attachment on the magic stick blender) and pulse until fully combined.
3. Slice mostly through the thick bread slices, being careful not to cut all the way through. "Don't break the hinge," as the cheesesteak lady says.
4. Spoon 1/4 of the cream cheese mixture in each pocket.
5. Beat together eggs, milk, and vanilla.
6. Dip bread into egg mixture, letting it sit for 5 seconds on each side, before placing dipped bread on a wire rack or parchment paper to give the egg mixture time to soak into the bread completely.
7. While the bread is resting, heat a large skillet to medium-low. Melt 1 tbsp. butter.
8. Cook 2 french toast in skillet for 4 minutes on each side, or until desired brownness is achieved. Add remaining 1 tbsp. butter, cook remaining 2 french toast.
9. Bake french toast on parchment paper-lined cookie sheet for 8 minutes.
10. Serve hot, garnished with powdered sugar and strawberries (for dessert, I like to top the french toast with a mini-scoop of ice cream along with the sugar and berries).

If you're cooking for one (like I am), wrap ungarnished french toast in foil, separated by parchment or wax paper, and keep in refrigerator. To re-heat, simply toast at medium to dark setting in toaster oven or bake at 350F for 10 minutes on a cookie sheet and covered with foil. These make great last-minute desserts or snacks, and can be frozen for up to 2 months when double-wrapped in foil.

The Importance of Being Tasty

It’s rare that I’m blown away by food. Yes, lunching at REDD in Yountville rocks my world (oh, the foie gras trio!). And I do love the burger at Ravenous in Healdsburg, with its giant oven fries and roasted garlic cloves. But locally (local to my parents, that is), there is a place serving up beautifully innovative food that never forgets the importance of taste over all else.

Shokolaat in Palo Alto is one of those rare finds that makes fine dining accessible to every kind of diner. Starters like the salad of baby greens and micro-herbs with a Meyer lemon vinaigrette, or the caramelized scallops in a porcini mushroom and leek stew are appealing on a mass scale.

However, my first visit to Shokolaat wasn’t about playing it safe. For our starters, we enjoyed the gratin of escargot and bone marrow, an aromatic dish with mushrooms, confit of onions, spinach, and red wine sauce. The orange-scented cauliflower soup, a velvety puree accented with orange blossom water “caviar,” was exactly sweet enough to pair perfectly with the house-made olive rolls. Say what you will about molecular gastronomy, the burst of flavor provided by the “caviar” was absolutely divine.

Our entrees included the Mediterranean sea bass, the duck breast, and the Australian rack of lamb. The sea bass, accompanied by parsnip puree and braised cabbage, was plated with a smear of saffron emulsion. The saffron flavor was distinct, but not overpowering, lending the dish a refined taste.

The duck breast seemed to have been cooked sous vide, being at medium doneness all the way through. It was served with lightly seasoned roasted sweet potatoes sliced nearly paper-thin, supporting a bed of gorgeous ruby chard. The port wine reduction surrounding the duck was smooth and rich.

The Australian rack of lamb, generously portioned, was seared perfectly and came with a lamb reduction that tied together the savory meat and roasted flavor of the accompanying vegetable tian.

We ordered a bittersweet chocolate soufflé at the beginning of the meal, and it arrived with all the flair that you would expect: the waiter took two spoons, opened a cavity in the soufflé, and poured in the aged dark rum sauce. Heaven.

Our other dessert was the chocolate and caramel tart, its rich bittersweet chocolate upper layer tempered by the deep caramel beneath it. Reminiscent of the best parts of my favorite candy bar, this dessert was swoon-worthy.

Shokolaat has quickly become one of my parents’ favorite restaurants, and if I lived up there, it would be my favorite, too. As it is, I guess I’ll have to settle for the occasional magical meal—but I have a feeling I’ll be in need of a Shokolaat fix sooner, rather than later.

(The photos were taken with the camera on my phone, sorry for their grainy look!)

Lemon Meringue Clouds

I went to tea at the Deb's house recently, bringing these airy treats with me. He and the Duchess enjoyed them and asked for the recipe. For you, my darlings...
(Yield: dependent on size of spoonfuls)

4 egg whites
1/2 tsp. cream of tartar
3/4 cup sugar
Dash of salt
1/2 tsp. lemon extract
1/4 tsp. lemon zest

1. Preheat oven to 375F.
2. In a large, stainless steel or glass bowl, whip together egg whites and cream of tartar into a light froth.
3. Add sugar and salt, then whip until soft peaks form.
4. Add lemon extract, then whip until stiff peaks form.
5. Fold in lemon zest, then whip again for a few seconds to bring back stiff peaks if they have deflated in folding.
6. Drop by spoofuls onto parchment paper or silicon baking pad.
7. Place in oven, then TURN OVEN OFF.
8. DO NOT open oven for at least 8 hours, or overnight.

The result should be smooth, shiny, white puffs with a crispy exterior and a slightly chewy interior.

These will keep for one week in an airtight container. Don't refrigerate, but rather, keep at room temp.

Mea culpa

Hello, all. It's been ages since my last post. SORRY! I've been busy with my normal career--you know, writing and TV and stuff :)

But keep an eye out on this blog. I'll put together a mishmash of my foodie experiences over the last couple months to make a mega-post full of info and pics. Maybe a recipe or two, too!

xoxo
The Amateur Chef

Under the weather? Feel better...with noodles!

I remember being young, barely able to see the top of the table at family parties. There were big coolers of sodas and juices, groups of aunties chatting about their kids, uncles huddled outside in the cold keeping watch over a roasting pig as it turned on a spit. There wasn’t much else I was aware of—playing with my cousins and godsisters was my main focus back then. But the one thing we all remember is the food.

There was always a huge platter of pancit, stir-fried noodles tossed with vegetables, meat, and a patis-soy sauce-pepper mixture that changed with every new hand that adjusted the seasoning. Sometimes, when I’m homesick or feeling ill, I make up a big batch of pancit canton. It always makes me feel better.


Spicy Pancit Canton
I tend to blanch my noodles in boiling ginger water to not only remove any excess salt and oil, but also to impart a faint scent of ginger directly into the noodles before seasoning with the rest of the dish. Mise en place is vital in the preparation of this dish, as it will help you preserve the color and texture of the vegetables. Eight servings.

1 lb. Chinese noodles (the yellow kind, like in lo mein)
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large onion, medium dice
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. fresh ginger, minced
1 cup Napa cabbage, shredded
½ cup carrots, julienned
2 cups bok choy, shredded
1 cup cooked protein (thinly sliced pork, chicken, tofu strips, shredded beef)
1 cup raw shrimp
1 ½ tbsp. sesame oil
2 tbsp. soy sauce (or half soy sauce and half toyomansi)
1 tsp. patis (or to taste)
2 tsp. chili garlic sauce (or to taste)
2 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
1 lemon cut in wedges
minced scallions for garnish

1. Blanch noodles in ginger water for 1 minute. Remove from water and drain.
2. In a large pan, heat vegetable oil on medium. Sweat onions until they start to soften slightly. Add garlic and minced ginger. Continue cooking for 1 minute.
3. Turn heat up to medium high and add cabbage and carrots. Cook for 2 minutes. Add bok choy and cook for 2 minutes.
4. Add cooked protein, sautéing until warmed through. Add raw shrimp, cook for 1 minute (or until shrimp starts to turn opaque).
5. Push the vegetable and protein mixture to the sides of the pan, then pour in sesame oil. Make sure the bottom of the pan is evenly coated with oil, then add drained noodles. Toss in oil, then incorporate the vegetable and protein mixture into the noodles.
6. Add sauces and black pepper, toss to coat.
7. Serve with lemon wedges. Garnish with scallions.

Spicy Noodle Soup
Sometimes, the best things are made from leftovers. I didn’t want to eat the same thing the next day, so I made soup. It was almost better than the original dish! Four to six servings (depending on how much pancit you have leftover).

4 cups low-sodium, fat-free chicken broth
1 tsp. minced ginger
leftover pancit
1 cup raw shrimp
minced scallions for garnish

1. Bring chicken broth and ginger to a boil.
2. Add raw shrimp. Boil for 1 minute.
3. Add pancit. Turn off heat and cover for 2 minutes.
4. Serve garnished with scallions.



I garnished both of these dishes with Salt & Pepper Shrimp. To make the shrimp, I dredged raw, tail-on shrimp in cornstarch, then deep-fried them until pink and crispy in 325F vegetable oil. Toss with kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper, et voila!

Good Food, Bay Area Edition, Part I

I went home last weekend to see my parents. Our first food stop was Patio Filipino in San Bruno. An unassuming spot located on a busy street, I was pleasantly surprised when we entered and found candlelit tables, white table cloths, and tasteful decor. The menu, though hardly innovative, is full to bursting with some of the best that Filipino cuisine has to offer.

Patio Filipino serves dishes family-style, enabling diners to try many different dishes. We ordered the sinigang na Corned Beef, a beef broth-based soup made tangy with the addition of tamarind. No one seems to know for sure who invented this version of sinigang, with its overtones of Western culture evident in the corned beef, but it is a beautifully balanced dish. The sour of the soup, the saltiness of the meat, the savory creaminess of Japanese eggplant, and the clean crispness of radish slices all work together to create harmony in every bowl.

We enjoyed garlic fried rice with this and other dishes that night. One of my favorites to mix with garlic rice is the pork sisig. Traditionally, sisig is made with meat from the pig's face and bits of minced pig's ears. The Patio Filipino version thankfully reworks this classic by using crisped pork belly and minced pork chops instead. A sweet-salty-garlicky flavor combination, the pork sisig benefits from the addition of jalapeno to brighten up the overall taste.

Beef tapa, marinated and sauteed boneless steak, came with a vinegar-based sauce that cut through the soy sauce marinade of the beef. Perfect when cut into small pieces and mixed with the garlic fried rice.

I'm usually a huge fan of all things soft shell crab-related, but our order of sizzling soft shell crab failed to impress. The crabs themselves were fried in a delicate batter that ended up oily and soggy from the sauce that topped this dish. Called taba ng talangka, it is literally "fat of the small crab." Salty, fatty, and pungent, this delicacy typically makes any dish it adorns an instant winner. However, there seemed to be too much of it here. I guess one really can have too much of a good thing.

We knew we wouldn't be able to have dessert if we finished all of the food, so we packed some up for leftovers and focused on the real star of the meal: Buko con Seta, Patio Filipino's version of halo-halo. In this incarnation, a young coconut is opened, juice drained out, then filled with a layer each of sweet red beans (azuki, also used in Japanese red bean ice cream and other desserts), langka (jackfruit), coconut jelly, and coconut maja blanca (similar to a blancmange in French cuisine, but made with coconut milk), then topped with two scoops of ube (purple yam) ice cream. It tasted even better than it looks.

Patio Filipino
1770 El Camino Real
San Bruno, CA 94066
650.872.9888

A Very Special Birthday Dinner

Most of Hollywood was out Wednesday night to celebrate Halloween. The streets were swarming with revelers dressed in outlandish costumes, performers shivering their way through routines, and police keeping the crowd from turning unruly.

That’s not my idea of a good Halloween—because it’s my birthday, too!

The Dark Knight spirited me far from the West Hollywood/Santa Monica Blvd. madness and instead treated me to a wonderfully indulgent dinner at Hatfield’s. We were seated in the dining room, a compact but efficiently designed space with a spartan, but thoroughly charming, feel.

The seven-course tasting menu beckoned us to order drinks that were light and fresh in flavor: the house special cucumber-mint gimlet for him, and a small (375 ml) bottle of the 2004 Vouvray from Champalou for me. The gimlet had a nice sweetness to it that married well with the green taste of the cucumber and brightness of the mint. I loved my Vouvray, with its crisp flavors of green pear, watercress, and green grapes that proved a perfect match to the dishes that comprised our meal.

Before ordering, we received an amuse bouche plate of deviled quail eggs with a hint of smoked salmon and a shot of creamy cauliflower soup, both of which were perfect little tastes. Then came warm cheese gougères—addictive and amazing, buttery and light in texture. It took a lot of self-control for the Dark Knight and I not to gorge ourselves on these little bits of goodness throughout the meal.

Luckily, the first course arrived shortly after ordering, and it set the tone for the rest of our wondrous ride. We received dishes tailored, it seemed, to our drink choices. Incredibly lovely and considerate, no? The Dark Knight’s cuttlefish atop celery root puree and maitake mushrooms dressed in a lemongrass and galanga root-scented dressing was exquisite. I was very impressed by the croque madame that the waiter placed before me: grilled, buttered brioche rounds housing slices of hamachi and a bit of prosciutto and topped with a sunny-side up quail egg. I was pleasantly surprised by how well hamachi and prosciutto go together. If I could have that dish every day, I would. Though the same could be said about the rest of our dishes, too…

Up next was seared octopus over marinated hearts of palm for the Dark Knight, the Asian-tinged flavors of which tied in nicely with the minty fresh flavors of his gimlet. My warm crab and trumpet mushroom-stuffed buckwheat crepe with beets and marinated radish accented with a smear of fines herbs was ethereal. Sweet crabmeat wins me over every time, especially when accompanied by components that create such harmony on my palate.

Just when we thought the seafood portion of our meal had reached its peak, Chef Quinn’s kitchen proved us wrong. The Dark Knight practically inhaled his poached ocean trout over ruby red grapefruit salad and smoked potato puree. The buttery, bright orange fish was so good, he almost forgot to share with me. No matter, though, because I was engrossed in my hempseed-crusted hamachi collar with creamed chard and Manila clam with cauliflower puree and garlic/pea sprout oil. The hamachi collar was tender and flavorful. Divine.

Three courses down, four to go, and the Dark Knight and I were starting to feel full. We couldn’t help but perk up, though, when we saw our next courses. The Dark Knight’s boneless chicken leg and seared foie gras over black eyed peas looked delicious, but my duck breast and seared foie gras with a whiskey-prune glaze was the only thing I would even consider eating at that point. The flavors, though rich and decadent, were so pleasing that I almost wish my serving had been larger. But then I wouldn’t have had space for the next course, which was quite delicious.

The Dark Knight was served slow-cooked beef rib supported by Chinese broccoli and a garnet yam puree, accompanied by a small handful of fried spätzle. He barely looked up as he dug in to the succulent and tender beef. I enjoyed the lamb, crusted with a date-pistachio-panko mixture and sitting on a potato and garlic chive puree with roasted heirloom carrots and supplemented by a smattering of fresh chickpeas. I’m not generally a fan of chickpeas, but I had already been so bowled over by everything else that I decided to take the plunge. So worth it. Fresh chickpeas are green, both in appearance and taste. They’re sweet and soft and juicy, a more substantial version of spring peas. This dish certainly broadened my culinary horizons in the very best way.

At this point, the Dark Knight had to drink some ice water and take some deep breaths. After such a long and exciting gastronomic adventure, he was experiencing food vertigo. The room started to spin, his breath came in short bursts, and his palms became sweaty. “Too much food, eaten too quickly,” I told him. Upon hearing that the remainder of our meal was all about sweets, the tension faded and the Dark Knight perked up. I guess the mere promise of dessert erased any heaviness he was feeling. I know it worked for me.

True to his word, our waiter brought the Dark Knight a mini lemon tart topped with a cloud of marshmallowy meringue as well as shards of melt-in-your-mouth slow-baked meringue. Yogurt sorbet and sweet grapefruit segments rounded out the plate. As much as I adore a lemon tart as lovely as this, I could not be bothered to have more than a taste once I started eating my buttermilk panna cotta with passion fruit sorbet. The panna cotta had the rich tang of buttermilk, enriched by the velvety texture achieved with the gelatin in the recipe. This course was really terrific, and a great palate-cleanser to prepare us for our “last” course.

For the grand finale, the Dark Knight had a chocolate tart with chocolate ganache shell and chocolate mousse atop the chewy caramel filling, accompanied by an extraordinarily smooth espresso gelato. My dessert of peanut butter-filled chocolate molten cake and salted caramel gelato was such perfection that I would have licked the plate if I were eating at home.

To ensure that we left with a good taste in our mouths, we were presented with dark chocolate and hazelnut petit fours sprinkled lightly with fleur de sel. Nothing could have topped off our meal better than these tiny treats, and the Dark Knight and I could not have been happier with our experience at Hatfield’s. The service was impeccable—warm and friendly but never intrusive, elevated by co-owner Karen’s warm demeanor and keen attention to detail—and the food will haunt my dreams for quite a while, I’m sure. At least until we come back to try the daily market special!

Hatfield’s
7458 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.935.2977

My new favorite

I picked the Dark Knight up from the airport Sunday morning. After dropping off his friend/flightmate Booker, we headed east on Pico, hungry and in desperate need of brunch. I pulled out my trusty Blackberry, scrolled through a few web pages, and ta-daa! Bloom.

Located on the not-so-genteel stretch of Pico between Fairfax and La Brea, the Dark Knight was concerned that I was leading him to an adventure in the 'hood. Not so, my dear superhero. Huge, colorful flowers are painted on the bright white walls, lit by track lighting. The warm smiles of the waitstaff welcomed us to a table for two right across from the pastry counter, beckoning us to try any of their baked goods, including the ubiquitous red velvet cupcakes.

With a breakfast menu focused mostly on magical egg dishes, the Dark Knight had little trouble choosing their chorizo omelette. "Real chorizo!" he exclaimed upon first bite. Served with a small salad of mixed baby greens and a bowl of fresh fruit (we picked out all the mango first), this breakfast was a real winner.

I had more trouble deciding on my order. With choices like Moroccan lamb pita, smoke salmon tartine, and heirloom tomato salad, it was hard to decide. I finally opted for the red curry chicken salad sandwich with fries. After one bite, I knew I had hit the jackpot--sweet bits of apple and raisin married perfectly with the creamy curry-tinged dressing and the freshly-baked whole wheat seeded bread.

I also had to try their much-lauded crushed mint lemonade, which was refreshing and not at all sweet. It was perfect for our warm Sunday brunch.

One of these days, the Dark Knight and I will be back to try their dinner menu, served from 5:00-10:00pm. Until then, I will refer to this neighborhood joint as my new favorite brunch place.

Rising above the rest

The Dark Knight and I are used to trying out the latest menus, chefs, or restaurants. But I’m not used to going back to an old haunt from years past and finding it thriving in a new incarnation. I shouldn’t have been surprised, though, that after years of culinary stagnation, the Highlands entertainment venue decided to revamp their VIP lounge/restaurant. How could I turn down the offer to try their new menu? After all, I had spent a few months in that lounge promoting a night and had sampled the old menu. The Dark Knight assured me I was qualified to judge their progress.

Lucky me! The space itself has been done in a clean, modern theme. Spartan décor draws the eye to a gorgeous new bar with plasma display, outdoor fireplace, and breathtaking city view. Dark woods and leather act as strong accents to the pale walls and cool ambient lighting. Strong drinks and friendly service make this restaurant/lounge the perfect place for a night out.

Beyond all that, though, the Wolfgang Puck-designed menu is a real treat. Most Hollywood/LA restaurants focus on Asian tastes, Mediterranean or French methods, and a rather haute mentality. Rise shines among the newest restaurants with its Southern-inspired cuisine and playful sense of plating. Taking advantage of all five senses, the eight-course tasting menu ($35/pp—a great deal!) was quite a ride.

Our first course was a dainty half head of butter lettuce still intact, dressed with a sherry-bacon vinaigrette. Accompanied by Point Reyes blue cheese, sliced hard-boiled egg, and sweet tomatoes, this updated classic was a lovely start.

Next up was a jumbo prawn, peel-n-eat style with a Tabasco-cocktail sauce. I love a good shrimp cocktail, and I rather enjoyed this take on it. However, I would have liked my piece a little less cooked. The prawn was slightly tougher than I’m accustomed to, but I’m picky about my shellfish (a childhood spent eating out at the best seafood restaurants in the state has spoiled me!).

Speaking of seafood, the following course was wonderful in its innovation. A single, plump crab cake sat nestled in sweet corn bisque, looking almost like a crouton in its placement. What a tasty surprise, then, when I cut it open and found deliciously fresh, creamy lump crab meat comprising almost all of the crab cake. So little filler was there, I could not decipher what exactly held the cake together. All I could taste was sweet, sweet crab. The bisque was a yummy, but unnecessary, addition. The only thing I needed on that plate was the crab cake. It was as close to perfect as I’ve found in LA.

Smoked swordfish came next, a petite taste of fish sauced with a peach beurre blanc and sitting atop red beans and rice. The swordfish and sauce were quite complimentary to each other, with the fruity sauce acting as a nice foil to the smoky, slightly salty fish. While I’m usually a fan of red beans and rice, I didn’t think this dish needed a starch component. If any starch were to be used, perhaps a teaspoon of sweet potato hash might have worked better.

As a fan of all fried foods, this next course piqued my interest. Fresh biscuits and a single piece of fried boneless chicken combined with a cider-dressed coleslaw to make six savory mouthfuls. Yes, I counted each bite because I wanted to prolong this course—it was that good. The mini-sandwich was held together by an unusually aromatic sprig of rosemary, adding to my enjoyment.

By the time we got to the next course, my dining companions and I were feeling full. I tried to finish the polenta that acted as a base for the pulled pork and collard greens, but it was simply too much. The pork itself was flavorful, and the greens were nicely seasoned.

Just when we thought we wouldn’t make it through the night, the last savory course came to our table. Slow-braised short ribs, served with crispy shallots and stone-ground wheat, rejuvenated our appetites. The short ribs were tender, juicy, succulent, and expertly cooked. The shallots made for a nice textural contrast, and the stone-ground wheat (somewhat akin to Cream of Wheat, in the best possible sense) soothed the palate after a night of luscious, salty, spicy, sweet, sour goodness. I might have wished for the wheat to be a little thinner, less homogenous, but perhaps I was just feeling starch overload from the beans-rice-biscuit-polenta onslaught.

If I thought I had already OD’d on carbs, I was wrong. Dessert came and blew us away: tiny apple pies topped with haystacks of sugar threads, paper-thin sheets of chocolate forming Kit-Kat flavored Napoleons, miniaturized dark chocolate truffle cakes with unsweetened whipped cream clouds, and the best itty-bitty banana cream pies ever. Yeah, you read that right. Ever. The piecrust was flaky, not at all sweet, a perfect balance for the creamy custard and banana. As for the caramel sauce drizzled around it…well, let’s just say it hit the spot.

Tourist trap or not, the Hollywood and Highland complex is getting it right when it comes to food, and Rise is the latest piece of evidence for this fact.



Rise
The Highlands Hollywood
6801 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028