Rising above the rest

The Dark Knight and I are used to trying out the latest menus, chefs, or restaurants. But I’m not used to going back to an old haunt from years past and finding it thriving in a new incarnation. I shouldn’t have been surprised, though, that after years of culinary stagnation, the Highlands entertainment venue decided to revamp their VIP lounge/restaurant. How could I turn down the offer to try their new menu? After all, I had spent a few months in that lounge promoting a night and had sampled the old menu. The Dark Knight assured me I was qualified to judge their progress.

Lucky me! The space itself has been done in a clean, modern theme. Spartan décor draws the eye to a gorgeous new bar with plasma display, outdoor fireplace, and breathtaking city view. Dark woods and leather act as strong accents to the pale walls and cool ambient lighting. Strong drinks and friendly service make this restaurant/lounge the perfect place for a night out.

Beyond all that, though, the Wolfgang Puck-designed menu is a real treat. Most Hollywood/LA restaurants focus on Asian tastes, Mediterranean or French methods, and a rather haute mentality. Rise shines among the newest restaurants with its Southern-inspired cuisine and playful sense of plating. Taking advantage of all five senses, the eight-course tasting menu ($35/pp—a great deal!) was quite a ride.

Our first course was a dainty half head of butter lettuce still intact, dressed with a sherry-bacon vinaigrette. Accompanied by Point Reyes blue cheese, sliced hard-boiled egg, and sweet tomatoes, this updated classic was a lovely start.

Next up was a jumbo prawn, peel-n-eat style with a Tabasco-cocktail sauce. I love a good shrimp cocktail, and I rather enjoyed this take on it. However, I would have liked my piece a little less cooked. The prawn was slightly tougher than I’m accustomed to, but I’m picky about my shellfish (a childhood spent eating out at the best seafood restaurants in the state has spoiled me!).

Speaking of seafood, the following course was wonderful in its innovation. A single, plump crab cake sat nestled in sweet corn bisque, looking almost like a crouton in its placement. What a tasty surprise, then, when I cut it open and found deliciously fresh, creamy lump crab meat comprising almost all of the crab cake. So little filler was there, I could not decipher what exactly held the cake together. All I could taste was sweet, sweet crab. The bisque was a yummy, but unnecessary, addition. The only thing I needed on that plate was the crab cake. It was as close to perfect as I’ve found in LA.

Smoked swordfish came next, a petite taste of fish sauced with a peach beurre blanc and sitting atop red beans and rice. The swordfish and sauce were quite complimentary to each other, with the fruity sauce acting as a nice foil to the smoky, slightly salty fish. While I’m usually a fan of red beans and rice, I didn’t think this dish needed a starch component. If any starch were to be used, perhaps a teaspoon of sweet potato hash might have worked better.

As a fan of all fried foods, this next course piqued my interest. Fresh biscuits and a single piece of fried boneless chicken combined with a cider-dressed coleslaw to make six savory mouthfuls. Yes, I counted each bite because I wanted to prolong this course—it was that good. The mini-sandwich was held together by an unusually aromatic sprig of rosemary, adding to my enjoyment.

By the time we got to the next course, my dining companions and I were feeling full. I tried to finish the polenta that acted as a base for the pulled pork and collard greens, but it was simply too much. The pork itself was flavorful, and the greens were nicely seasoned.

Just when we thought we wouldn’t make it through the night, the last savory course came to our table. Slow-braised short ribs, served with crispy shallots and stone-ground wheat, rejuvenated our appetites. The short ribs were tender, juicy, succulent, and expertly cooked. The shallots made for a nice textural contrast, and the stone-ground wheat (somewhat akin to Cream of Wheat, in the best possible sense) soothed the palate after a night of luscious, salty, spicy, sweet, sour goodness. I might have wished for the wheat to be a little thinner, less homogenous, but perhaps I was just feeling starch overload from the beans-rice-biscuit-polenta onslaught.

If I thought I had already OD’d on carbs, I was wrong. Dessert came and blew us away: tiny apple pies topped with haystacks of sugar threads, paper-thin sheets of chocolate forming Kit-Kat flavored Napoleons, miniaturized dark chocolate truffle cakes with unsweetened whipped cream clouds, and the best itty-bitty banana cream pies ever. Yeah, you read that right. Ever. The piecrust was flaky, not at all sweet, a perfect balance for the creamy custard and banana. As for the caramel sauce drizzled around it…well, let’s just say it hit the spot.

Tourist trap or not, the Hollywood and Highland complex is getting it right when it comes to food, and Rise is the latest piece of evidence for this fact.



Rise
The Highlands Hollywood
6801 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028